https://www.purrfectpost.com/how-to-train-your-cat-or-kitten-to-use-a-scratching-post/​

Training your cat to use a cat scratching post is a necessary and important step when you are dealing with the question of "How to stop a cat from scratching furniture?" First, it is important to learn how to choose the best cat scratching post. Getting your cat to use her scratching post is much easier when you have taken the time to choose one for which she will automatically have a natural affinity. Once you've done that, employ the following tips to train your cat to use a scratching post and stop scratching your furniture or carpeting.
Before Training, Find the Best Place to Put Your Cat Scratching PostsA critical step in ensuring that your cat uses her new scratching posts is making sure that you choose the best areas in the house to place them. The best scratching post placement is done using knowledge of normal cat scratching behaviors. Though we humans may have preferences for where we'd like the cat scratching posts to be in our home, usually in corners and out-of-the-way places, these aren't always the best spots in the eyes of our feline friends. When we consider the issue from their point of view, it's easy to understand why.
There are a few ingrained reasons for cat scratching behavior:

• One fact that we can use when choosing cat scratching post placement is that cats scratch to communicate to other cats about their territory. The visual scratch marks on objects and the scents that are deposited from glands in the cat's paws are both messages that are easily read by other cats. With this in mind, it's obvious that your cat would not find a corner or inconspicuous area to be a suitable place to leave such messages. She prefers a flashing billboard in the form of a tall, sturdy scratching post in a prominent area of the home. Choose high-traffic areas and unhidden spaces in rooms to satisfy this evolutionary feline urge. But don't despair. Once your cat is reliably using her cat scratching post, it can usually be moved (slowly, over a period of weeks) to a spot that fits better with your home décor plan.
• Another reason that cats scratch is to stretch the muscles in their bodies, especially the shoulders, toes, and feet. They love to do this when they first wake up, making the area around their favorite sleeping spots excellent spots to place scratching posts, as well.
• If your cat is scratching at a certain area of carpet, this may also be a good spot to put your cat scratching post or scratching pad. You already know she likes that area, and it may help her understand that you want her to use the scratching post or pad instead of the carpeting.
• If your cat is scratching at the arms of your couch or the sides of other furniture, she can often be deterred when you place a heavy blanket, tucked in well so that she can't get under it, around the area. Then, place her cat scratching post directly in front of the object she was previously scratching. Once she has left the furniture alone and used the post reliably for a week or two, you can begin moving the scratching post to your preferred spot, at the rate of an inch or so a day.

A final note on cat scratching post placement: Providing cats with multiple scratching posts in different areas of your home increases the likelihood that your furniture and carpeting will be left alone. If your cat is already using an inappropriate object or place to scratch, examine it to gain valuable information. Are the scratch marks high or low, on a vertical or horizontal surface, in a corner or under a bed? You can use this data to help you choose the type and placement of scratching posts and pads. Cats like to scratch on vertical surfaces, horizontal surfaces, and angled surfaces. Sometimes they enjoy finding places to scratch in special areas such as under the bed or in the closet.


Drumming up Interest in the Scratching PostIf your cat doesn't immediately use her new scratching post or shows only mild interest in it, don't worry. Sometimes they need a little more coaxing in order to discover that you've provided them with the best scratching surface they could hope for. Here are a few tips for introducing your cat to her new scratching post and training her to use it.

• Catnip: Young kittens and some cats are not interested in catnip but many cats go crazy for it. If you have one of these cats, sprinkle some loose-leaf catnip on the base and top of the cat scratching post. When your cat licks it up, she'll usually start kneading her paws. This will allow her to discover that it is a great scratching surface and she'll remember that and use it to its fullest later.
• Play: You can help your cat learn that her new scratching post is awesome by playing with her around and on it. A great way to accomplish this is with a wand type cat toy. With this, you can encourage your cat to reach up and place her paws on the scratching post as she's reaching and diving for the toy. You can also try placing your cat's favorite toy on top of the post to interest her in climbing up to get it. In short order, she'll find that she loves scratching on the post, too.
• Try laying the scratching post on its side. When you are working with a cat that has never used a scratching post, it may help to first place the post on its side. Use the above methods of sprinkling catnip and playing around and on the post, especially with wand toys. Once your cat is using the post in this position reliably for a few days, you can stand it up and provide even more enjoyment.
• The more cats you have, the more scratching posts you'll need. Encourage your cats to play with each other on and near the scratching posts by tossing small toys and balls around them.
• Treats: Some cats love treats so be sure to have a few in your pocket while you're introducing the scratching post. Initially, you can give a treat if your cat sniffs and investigates the post. As she becomes more familiar with it, give a treat when she places her paws on it, working up to when she scratches it. You can also try putting some treats on top of the post. This will encourage her to climb up the post to retrieve the treats. Treats will make the scratching post a very positive experience for your cat.
• Together with your efforts to increase your cat's interest in her scratching posts, you can use a product called Feliway, a spray that mimics the feline facial pheromones that make cats feel good, a few times a day on any household object that your cat is scratching. Using both methods simultaneously, your cat will not only understand that you want her to use the post but that you don't want her to use the furniture.

One thing that usually does NOT work when trying to introduce a cat to a new scratching post is to grab her paws and place them on the post. Cats are notorious for having their own minds and liking things to be their own idea. Manhandling their paws is usually a no-no in the eyes of most cats and will likely result in avoidance of the scratching post. An exception to this might be a very young kitten. They often can be shown how to use a scratching post in this manner, especially if you don't have an older cat in the home to demonstrate. Play, as described above, also tends to work great with kittens.


Negative Training Methods Usually BackfireA brief note on negative training methods: There are lots of approaches to cat training that seek to associate negative consequences with an unwanted feline behavior, causing them to avoid it in the future. These include squirting your cat in the face with water, making a loud noise with coins in a can, using mousetraps to scare or injure a cat, yelling, hitting, and any other similar strategies. These negative reinforcement techniques usually do not work with cats and, worse, they may completely backfire or cause injury. Many cats become stressed by such occurrences and, when that happens, they will react with behaviors that most humans won't find acceptable. They may urinate or defecate outside of the litterbox, on carpeting, or on personal items. They may scratch more at other objects in the home. In the worst case, they may become withdrawn and hide or refuse to eat. Focus on positively reinforcing the behavior you want to see from your cat (using her scratching post) rather than negatively reinforcing the behavior you don't want.
Final WordsIf you have followed all of the steps above for training your cat to use her new scratching post and she just doesn't seem interested in it, try moving it to another area before you give up. A nice spot in front of a window is often a good idea and, if there are birds or other wildlife around for your cat to spy on, the excitement often leads to a scratching session.
With a little bit of thought, time, and praise, your cat will be ignoring your furniture and carpeting in favor of her new scratching posts all the time.

Essential oils,  aromatherapy, and potpourri in your home may be pleasant for you, but natural compounds in these fragrances can be dangerous for your cat. Take precautions when using these products so your cat does not have a toxic reaction. If your cat has any liver impairment, it may be best to eliminate these products from your cat's environment.
Essential Oil Toxicity to Cats Years ago, certain essential oils were considered to be safe for cats and were recommended for such uses as treating ear mite infestations, upper respiratory problems and for stress relief. In recent years, however, compelling evidence has demonstrated that essential oils can be toxic to cats, whether taken internally, applied to the skin, or simply inhaled.
The liver is most often the organ which is affected by essential oils. Cats lack certain enzymes that provide the ability to properly metabolize the various compounds in essential oils, phenols in particular. These phenolic compounds occur naturally in some plants and are highly concentrated in essential oils. 
Exposure can lead to serious liver damage, liver failure, seizures, or even death for cats.


Essential Oils Potentially Toxic to Cats These oils are known to contain phenols and be toxic to cats:

• Wintergreen oil
• Peppermint oil
• Citrus oil (including lemon oil)
• Tea tree oil (melaleuca oil)
• Pine oil
• Eucalyptus oil
• Cinnamon oil
• Pennyroyal oil
• Sweet birch oil
• Clove oil
• Ylang ylang oil
• The higher the concentration of essential oil, the greater the risk to your cat. If your cat ingests any oils accidentally, go to the veterinarian immediately.
  
  
  Symptoms of Essential Oil Poisoning Cats absorb oils that are directly in contact with their skin. Oils diffused in the air are inhaled and also collect on the fur, which results in your cat ingesting them during licking and cleaning. Toxicity can occur very quickly or over a longer period of exposure.
  Symptoms of essential oil poisoning include:
  
• Drooling
• Vomiting
• Tremors
• Difficulty walking, wobbliness (ataxia)
• Respiratory distress (wheezing, fast breathing, panting, coughing)

If you notice any of these signs, take your cat to a veterinary emergency center. The veterinarian may note a low heart rate, low blood pressure, and signs of liver failure.

How Your Cat May Be Exposed to Essential Oils Your cat may be exposed to essential oils you use for your own purposes. Keep any essential oils in a cat-proof cabinet so your curious pet doesn't have access to them. Passive reed diffusers or potpourri pots can be knocked over, exposing your cat to the oil-containing liquid. Don't allow your pet to lick your skin if you have applied any products that contain essential oils.
Essential oil and aromatherapy diffusers, candles, liquid potpourri products, and room sprays are sources of airborne essential oils that cats can inhale or lick off their fur. If you can smell the fragrance of the oil, there is oil in the air and it can affect your cat.


Kittens, elderly cats, or cats who have liver or respiratory problems should be kept out of any room where essential oil diffusers are used. Don't wear aromatherapy jewelry when you are around your cat.

Hydrosols Also Dangerous for Cats
Hydrosols are often touted as a more natural, safer alternative to essential oils. Hydrosols are also known as "flower waters." They are the water that remains after steam-distilling flowers or herbs in water, and are less saturated than essential oils
While hydrosols are safer for use on human skin since they do not have to be diluted, they still are dangerous for cats and other pets. The water can hold on to residual matter from the plants that can be toxic if ingested or even inhaled.
Some pets can tolerate hydrosols, but others are more sensitive. Limit your pet's access to them and their scents to minimize the risk of any health issues.
While aromatherapy can be helpful in managing your stress or other conditions, they can be toxic to pets. Take precautions to protect your pets and keep them away from harmful essential oils.

It is sometimes said that because cats are fussy eaters they are less easily poisoned than dogs. However, because of their curious nature and the fact that they will groom any substance off their coats and ingest it, intoxication is not that uncommon.
Other factors predispose cats to becoming ill once they have been exposed to a poisonous substance; these include their small body size, their ability to hide so that exposure is not immediately evident, and because cats, being specialist carnivores, lack certain liver enzymes, they are unable to breakdown certain chemicals. It is because of this that when cats become poisoned they are perhaps less likely to recover than dogs.
How can a cat become poisoned?Cats can be poisoned in a number of ways:

• Directly ingesting a toxic substance either by eating it or by eating poisoned prey.
• Swallowing poisons while grooming contaminated fur.
• Absorbing some toxins through the skin (particularly the paws)
• Inhaling the poison.

What signs might warn me that my cat may have been poisoned?The clinical signs are very variable and will depending on the particular poison concerned. Many toxins produce gastrointestinal signs (vomiting and diarrhoea), others produce neurological signs (tremors, incoordination, seizures, excitability, depression, or coma), respiratory signs (coughing, sneezing, difficulty breathing), skin signs (inflammation, swelling), liver failure (jaundice, vomiting) or kidney failure (increased drinking, inappetence and weight loss). Some toxins act on more than one body system, and so can produce any combination of the above signs.
It is important to remember that while most cases of intoxication will cause acute problems, chronic intoxication can also arise, and often proves even more difficult to recognise and treat.
What should I do if I think my cat has been poisoned?

• Remove your cat from the source of the poison and isolate from other animals.
• If the poison is on the coat or paws, try to prevent the cat from grooming itself further.
• Contact your vet for advice immediately; make sure you know when, where and how the poisoning occurred. If appropriate take the packaging, plant or substance with you to the vet.
• Do not try to make the cat vomit, unless you are instructed to do so by your vet.
• If the skin or fur is contaminated wash thoroughly with mild shampoo and water.

My cat has got something 'chemical' on its coat, what should I do?Only when the contamination is mild and confined to the coat, can the cat may be treated at home. The aim of treatment is to prevent further contamination.
The cat's collar should be removed as it may also have been contaminated. Also, some flea collars contain chemicals which may be harmful to sick cats. To remove chemicals from the coat it is best to clip off contaminated hair and then wash the cat in warm soapy water. It is important to remove as much of the contamination as possible before washing because the process of washing can increase the absorption of some chemicals. The cat must then be dried fully to prevent it from chilling. Oily material can be removed by rubbing it with clean, warm cooking oil, then wiping it off thoroughly, (ie, remove oil with oil).
If you feel the cat may have ingested any toxin it should be taken to the vet. Even if the contamination is confined to the coat, it is important that the cat should be encouraged to drink as this will help to wash out any absorbed toxins.
After any exposure to possible poisons it is advisable to keep the cat under observation in a warm, quiet room for 24 hours.


Common poisonsIn many cases of poisoning in cats, the poison in unknown. However, there are many substances within the home which are potentially poisonous to cats.
Household products

• Cleaning and hygiene products such as bleach, cleaning fluids and creams, deodorants, deodorisers, disinfectants (particularly phenolic compounds like 'Dettol' which turn milky in water), laundry capsules and concentrated liquids, furniture and metal polishes. Concentrated washing liquids or powders can burn the feet and skin if cats walk through them.
• Human medicines such as laxatives, aspirin, paracetamol and antidepressants. Paracetamol is often given to cats in a caring but misguided attempt to relieve pain. It is highly dangerous to cats and just one tablet is enough to cause severe illness or death. Signs of poisoning include depression, vomiting, swelling of the face and paws and a bluish discolouration of the skin. An effective antidote is available but must be use very soon after the dat has taken the tablet.
• Motoring products such as antifreeze, brake fluid, petrol and windscreen washer fluid. Antifreeze often contains ethylene glycol or methanol, which are toxic to cats (also found in car screenwashes and de-icers). Many animals find antifreeze sweet tasting, and ingesting even the smallest amount can lead to kidney failure and death, especially in cats. 

• Beauty products such as hair dyes, nail polish and remover and suntan lotion.
• Decorating materials such as paint, varnish, paint remover, white spirit and wood preservatives (such as creosote). These can be poisonous if groomed from the coat or can cause burning, blisters or irritation to the skin and footpads or severe irritation in the mouth.
• Miscellaneous household items such as mothballs, photographic developer, chocolate and shoe polish.

Always ensure that any of these products are stored safely and spillages cleaned up immediately and carefully. If products are kept in high places where cats can push them off a shelf and then walk through liquids which escape though broken or split containers or tops, then make sure they are secured in closed cupboards.


Never give cats products intended for people (unless instructed otherwise by your vet)
To avoid accidental poisonings:

• Always keep antifreeze in clearly labelled, robust, sealed containers, away from pets and their environment.
• Clean up any spills immediately, no matter how small, and make sure pets cannot access the area until it is clean and safe.
• Always dispose of antifreeze safely and responsibly. Contact your local authority for advice.
 

If your pet shows any of the following signs take them to a vet immediately:

• Increased urination
• Increased drinking
• Vomiting
• Depression
• Lethargy (being abnormally sleepy)
• Appearing drunk and uncoordinated
• Seizures (fitting)
• Abnormally fast heartbeat
• Very fast, shallow breathing

The sooner veterinary treatment is received, the better their chances of survival. If left untreated pets can suffer, and will die.

Pesticides

• Insecticides (insect killers including ant and wasp killers) such as organophosphates and pyrethroids.
• Molluscicides (slug and snail killers) such as metaldehyde and methiocarb. Slug pellets are sometimes eaten by cats and should not be used where cats can reach them - liquid formulations are preferable.
• Fungicides (for treating fungal infections, eg, mildews, rusts, rose black spot) such as thiophanage-methyl and benomyl
• Rodenticides (rat and mouse killers) such as brodifacoum, difenacoum, chlorphacione and coumatetralyl. Rodenticides are the most common pesticides implicated in poisoning of cats, usually because the cat has eaten poisoned prey. The other pesticides are normally safe for cats when used at their correct working strength, provided that cats are excluded from the treated area until the spray has dried.
• Always ensure that any of these products are stored safely and spillages clean up immediately and carefully. If products are kept in high places where cats can push them off a shelf and then walk through liquids which escape though broken or split containers or tops, then make sure they are secured in closed cupboards. When using sprays of pesticides or herbicides in the garden keep the cat in until they have dried.
  Dog flea treatment products
  
  Permethrin is found in many spot-on preparations for dogs used for the control of fleas, biting flies and lice (also in some ant powders). Posioning can arise when cats are accidentally treated with such dog flea products or where they groom themselves or other animals treated with the product. Cats may salivate a great deal, be thirsty and have a high temperature and tremors or convulsions – urgent veterinary advice is essential.
  See our 'protect against permethrin campaign' and sign our petition to get it better regulated. Please also see our information on treating your cat for fleas.
  Never use dog products on cats
  Bites or stingsAcross the world there is a huge range of biting and stinging animals or insects which could injure a cat. In some cases where these are not rapidly fatal, treatment or an antivenom may be available. Check with your vet.
  PlantsThere are many commonly-grown plants, both house plants and garden plants, that are toxic or can cause skin irritation. Most cats that go outside do not eat poisonous plants but will nibble grass and other herbs, perhaps as a remedy for digestive problems. However, if cats are kept permanently indoors they may not have access to grass and may try eating other things either out of boredom or to try and access some plant material.
  Curious kittens may also sample foliage and because they are small, do not need a great deal to suffer the consequences. The simple answer is to provide a supply of growing cocksfoot grass for the cat, which can readily be grown in a pot or seed tray. Some house plants, such as the Dumb Cane (Dieffenbachia) are so poisonous that it is unwise to grow them where there are small children or pets in the house.
  It is not just growing plants that can be a problem – cut flowers such as lilies (plants of the Lillium species) are highly toxic – not just the leaves but the flowers and the pollen as well. Less than one leaf ingested by a cat can cause kidney failure and urgent veterinary treatment is required to prevent death. Check flower labels for warnings of toxicity to animals.
  
  

If you’re a cat lover, sometimes it’s hard to stop at one cat. Once you’ve decided you’re ready to bring in an additional kitty, there are some careful things to make the transition as easy as possible. Most cats are not fast friends, and it can take an ample amount of time before the two warm up to one another. Try our helpful tips to get your two cats on the track to becoming lifelong bffs
1. Take things slow
First impressions mean a lot in the eyes of a cat. You have to remember that bringing a new cat into the home might confuse your “king/queen of the house” cat, so this is a major adjustment to your cat’s life. Not all cats will immediately get along and it’s important to integrate the two gradually as not to overwhelm the other.
2. Be sure that new kitty has his own litter box
Although you have a litter box in the home for your current cat, when integrating the two together it’s best to keep some things separate. This rule should apply for the time being until the two can be properly acclimated to one another. Baby steps will ring true for this feline-integrating scenario.
3. Be sure that both of your cats have individual places to retreat
Not all cats will hit it off with a bang, and some may take an extended period of time to feel comfortable around each other. To help both of your cats become acquainted on their own be sure that they each have individual hiding places so they can rest and sneak away in peace.
4. Get a new food bowl for new kitty
When introducing your new cat it’s important that each cat has their own food/water bowl. Not only this, but be sure that the food supply for both cats is out in the open, and not in a confined space. Your cats shouldn’t be made to feel as if they are now forced to share food, and with their own food and water dishes they won’t have to.
5. If your cat isn’t spayed/neutered this may soon be a problem.
While introducing cats of the opposite sex won’t present an immediate issue, it may if your new cat/existing cat takes a liking to the other one. Unless you want a litter of kittens in your future be smart and fix one, if not both, of your kitties.
6. Practice extra precaution if introducing a kitten with an older cat.
Not all older, calmer cats are crazy about hyper little kittens. Bringing a playful kitten into the home may irritate your cat if they’re a bit older, so try to let the kitten play with your cat in small doses as not to pester them and kitten get swatted as a result. On the plus side, introducing a kitten in the mix won’t cause your older cat to feel threatened like they would if introducing a grown cat.

Christmas is coming!
Christmas is coming!  Everyone wants a safe, happy Christmas for people and pets, so here are some tips to make sure your cat enjoys Christmas as much as you do … and avoid that Christmas morning trip to the vet!
Don’t let this list depress you – your cat may not be at all bothered about a lot of the things on the list.  Only you know your cat and which things to be careful of.  Most of all have a happy time with all those you love – including your cat!
Most of this advice is the same as for houses with young children so taking a few precautions is safer and happier for the whole family.

Christmas Trees and Decorations
Some cats regard Christmas trees as a delightful playground.  Others are pretty much uninterested.  One of my cats, not the sharpest tool in the box, never noticed the tree was there till around 12th Night!  A nimble, careful cat may climb the tree in perfect safety, but just to be on the safe side, think carefully about where you put your tree and what you put on it.

1.  Choose somewhere that you can secure the tree to the wall or ceiling, so a climbing cat will not cause it to overbalance.  You can use clear fishing line to secure the tree – it’s almost invisible but very strong.  Small cup hooks or ring hooks can be permanently placed in the ceiling or walls – most of the year they will not be noticeable but will be invaluable at Christmas.
2. Make sure the tree base is sturdy and stable.  If your tree is real, don’t use any chemicals in the water – cats WILL drink out of it in preference to their nicely presented fresh water bowl, and tree preservatives are toxic.  Alternatively, cover the top of the pot securely so the cat can’t get to the water.
3. If you can’t secure your tree, think about putting a play pen round it, so if it falls, it falls safely!
4. Pine needles are not toxic, and most cats would not try to eat them, but if you suspect yours might do so, sweep or vacuum them up as soon as you see them.  If a needle is swallowed, it can lodge in the cat’s intestines and cause irritation or even a blockage.
5. Use ribbon or twine rather than hooks to put your decorations on the tree.  Hooks can snag on an ear or tail, or get swallowed. 
6. Keep breakable ornaments for the top of the tree, out of easy reach of your cat.  Many baubles are made of glass and if broken will cut paws and noses.   Do not use edible ornaments – edible for humans can be toxic to cats, and a cat may leap up a tree to get at the attractive smell. 
7. Tinsel is dangerous!  Many cats can’t resist the shiny stuff, and if they chew it, it can easily form a blockage in the intestines.  Even if your cat is not a climber, be careful when actually decorating as tinsel and so on around on the floor or on the table is just as attractive to a cat as it is when it is on the tree.

Turkey Time!
Who can resist giving a good and deserving cat some of the good things around?  A little treat does not harm but cats are creatures of routine, and too many tasty extras can quickly lead to upset stomachs!
If you truss your turkey with string, carefully put it straight into your (cat-proof) dustbin!  If a cat starts to swallow something, it can’t stop because of the structure of its throat and tongue, so if your pet starts sucking the tasty turkey-soaked string, the whole lot will go down his gullet – never try to pull it out but rush him to the vet as soon as possible or a life-threatening situation will develop.
Gifts, Wrapping and Ribbons
Although your cat probably strongly disagrees, he is not very helpful when you are trying to wrap presents while he is sitting on the paper, getting stuck to the sellotape etc. 
Obviously gifts left under the tree will be investigated by your cat, and the same dangers lurk as with tree decorations.  It’s better to keep them all somewhere else till Christmas morning when you will be there to supervise.  Have a big bag for everyone to bundle their wrapping paper etc straight into to remove temptation.  Your cat doesn’t really understand presents – he won’t mind you opening his for him!
Candles ...
...burn paws and curious noses, fall over when brushed against, set fire to waving tails and so on.  Keep them out of cat-range and never leave them lighted when you aren’t in the room (which is good avice whether you have a cat or not).
Also be careful of liquid potpouri as it is caustic and poisonous to people and cats alike.
Pot Plants
Many cats can’t resist nibbling plants in the home.  Most plants are perfectly safe, but there are a few traditional Christmas gift plants that are dangerous for cats.  If you are given one of these, either keep them in a cat-proof room or re-gift them to a pet free home.
Amaryllis, daffodils, hyacinths, iris, mistletoe and ALL LILIES are very poisonous to cats.  If you think your cat has chewed on any of these, take him to the vet IMMEDIATELY. 
Poinsettias are less dangerous but some cats are sensitive to them and can have upset stomachs and vomit if they eat them.
Visitors and Visiting
If you are thinking of taking your cat with you to visit – don’t do it.  There are very, very few cats that enjoy this.  Your cat will be much happier in her own home with a friendly face coming a couple of times a day to feed and check up on her.  Even boarding in a cattery is better than stressing your cat out travelling and then meeting lots of new humans and maybe their pets too.
If you have visitors coming for Christmas, try to keep your cat’s routine as normal as possible.  Make sure he has a quiet place to retreat to at all times with his bed, blanket, toys, and wate and food bowls.  Train your visitors in cat etiquette!  - “Don’t chase the cat – let the cat come to you”.  Most dogs enjoy meeting new people – most cats hate it.  Don’t scold your cat because she isn’t a dog or an ornament – or because you dropped the turkey and need someone to shout at!  And remember that a party popper is a gun as far as your cat is concerned.
The secret of a happy cat-loving home at Christmas is routine, routine, routine!  And a safe room is a refuge not just for your cat, but for you when it all gets too much and you need some quality quiet time with your furry friend. 
We hope you and your cats have a happy, peaceful and relaxed Christmas
​source : https://www.cats.org.uk/oxford/feature-pages/christmas-is-coming
​ 

 Common Cat Behavior Issues.
​Litter Box Problems

At least 10% of all cats develop elimination problems. Some stop using the box altogether. Some only use their boxes for urination or defecation but not for both. Still others eliminate both in and out of their boxes. Elimination problems can develop as a result of conflict between multiple cats in a home, as a result of a dislike for the litter-box type or the litter itself, as a result of a past medical condition, or as a result of the cat deciding she doesn’t like the location or placement of the litter box.

Once a cat avoids her litter box for whatever reason, her avoidance can become a chronic problem because the cat can develop a surface or location preference for elimination—and this preference might be to your living room rug or your favorite easy chair. The best approach to dealing with these problems is to prevent them before they happen by making your cat’s litter boxes as cat-friendly as possible. See our common litter-box management issues below, and our ways to make litter boxes cat-friendly. It is also important that you pay close attention to your cat’s elimination habits so that you can identify problems in the making. If your cat does eliminate outside her box, you must act quickly to resolve the problem before she develops a strong preference for eliminating on an unacceptable surface or in an unacceptable area.
Litter box use problems in cats can be diverse and complex. Behavioral treatments are often effective, but the treatments must be tailored to the cat’s specific problem. Be certain to read the entire article to help you identify your particular cat’s problem and to familiarize yourself with the different resolution approaches to ensure success with your cat.
Why Do Some Cats Eliminate Outside the Litter Box?Litter-Box Management Problems
If your cat isn’t comfortable with her litter box or can’t easily access it, she probably won’t use it. The following common litter-box problems might cause her to eliminate outside of her box:

• You haven’t cleaned your cat’s litter box often or thoroughly enough.
• You haven’t provided enough litter boxes for your household. Be sure to have a litter box for each of your cats, as well as one extra.
• Your cat’s litter box is too small for her.
• Your cat can’t easily get to her litter box at all times.
• Your cat’s litter box has a hood or liner that makes her uncomfortable.
• The litter in your cat’s box is too deep. Cats usually prefer one to two inches of litter.

Surface Preference
Some cats develop preferences for eliminating on certain surfaces or textures like carpet, potting soil or bedding.
Litter Preference or Aversion
As predators who hunt at night, cats have sensitive senses of smell and touch to help them navigate through their environment. These sensitivities can also influence a cat’s reaction to her litter. Cats who have grown accustomed to a certain litter might decide that they dislike the smell or feel of a different litter.
Location Preference or Aversion
Like people and dogs, cats develop preferences for where they like to eliminate and may avoid locations they don’t like. This means they might avoid their litter box if it’s in a location they dislike.
Inability to Use the Litter Box
Geriatric cats or cats with physical limitations may have a difficult time using certain types of litter boxes such as top-entry boxes, or litter boxes with high sides.
Negative Litter-Box Association
There are many reasons why a cat who has reliably used her litter box in the past starts to eliminate outside of the box. One common reason is that something happened to upset her while she was using the litter box. If this is the case with your cat, you might notice that she seems hesitant to return to the box. She may enter the box, but then leave very quickly—sometimes before even using the box.
One common cause for this is painful elimination. If your cat had a medical condition that caused her pain when she eliminated, she may have learned to associate the discomfort with using her litter box. Even if your cat’s health has returned to normal, that association may still cause her to avoid her litter box.
Household Stress
Stress can cause litter-box problems. Cats can be stressed by events that their owners may not think of as traumatic. Changes in things that even indirectly affect the cat, like moving, adding new animals or family members to your household—even changing your daily routine—can make your cat feel anxious.
Multi-Cat Household Conflict
Sometimes one or more cats in a household control access to litter boxes and prevent the other cats from using them. Even if one of the cats isn’t actually confronting the other cats in the litter box, any conflict between cats in a household can create enough stress to cause litter-box problems.
Medical Problems That Can Cause Inappropriate EliminationUrinary Tract Infection (UTI)
If your cat frequently enters her litter box and seems to produce only small amounts of urine, she may have a urinary tract infection. See a veterinarian to rule out this possible medical problem.
Feline Interstitial Cystitis
Feline interstitial cystitis is a neurological disease that affects a cat’s bladder (“cystitis” means inflamed bladder). Cats with cystitis will attempt to urinate frequently and may look as if they are straining, but with little success. They may lick themselves where they urinate, and they may have blood in their urine. Feline interstitial cystitis can cause a cat to eliminate outside of her box, but this is only because of the increased urgency to urinate and because there is pain involved in urination. Feline interstitial cystitis is very serious and can be life-threatening to the cat. It must be treated immediately by a veterinarian.
Kidney Stones or Blockage
If your cat has kidney stones or a blockage, she may frequently enter her litter box. She may also experience pain and meow or cry when she tries to eliminate. Her abdomen may be tender to the touch.
Other Behavior Problems to Rule OutUrine Marking
Urine marking is a problem that most pet owners consider a litter box problem since it involves elimination outside the box, but the cause and treatment are entirely different from other litter-box problems and therefore it is considered a rule out. A cat who urine marks will regularly eliminate in her litter box, but will also deposit urine in other locations, usually on vertical surfaces. When marking, she’ll usually back up to a vertical object like a chair side, wall or speaker, stand with her body erect and her tail extended straight up in the air, and spray urine onto the surface. Often her tail will twitch while she’s spraying. The amount of urine a cat sprays when she’s urine marking is usually less than the amount she would void during regular elimination in her box. For more information about this problem, please see our article, Urine Marking in Cats.
What to Do If Your Cat Eliminates Outside the Litter BoxBasic Tips for Making Cats Feel Better About Using Their Litter Boxes

• Virtually all cats like clean litter boxes, so scoop and change your cat’s litter at least once a day. Rinse the litter box out completely with baking soda or unscented soap once a week.
• The majority of cats prefer large boxes that they can enter easily. Plastic sweater storage containers make excellent litter boxes.
• Most cats like a shallow bed of litter. Provide one to two inches of litter rather than three to four inches.
• Most cats prefer clumping, unscented litter.
• Your cat may prefer the type of litter she used as a kitten.
• Most cats don’t like box liners or lids on their boxes.
• Cats like their litter boxes located in a quiet but not “cornered” location. They like to be able to see people or other animals approaching, and they like to have multiple escape routes in case they want to leave their boxes quickly.
• Because self-cleaning boxes are generally cleaner than traditional types of litter boxes, many cats accept them readily. However, if you’re using a self-cleaning litter box and your cat starts eliminating outside the box, try switching to a traditional type of litter box.

Resolving a Litter-Box Problem
The first step in resolving elimination outside the litter box is to rule out urine marking and medical problems. Have your cat checked thoroughly by a veterinarian. Once your veterinarian determines that your cat doesn’t have a medical condition or issue, try following these guidelines:

• Provide enough litter boxes. Make sure you have one for each cat in your household, plus one extra. For example, if you have three cats, you’ll need a minimum of four litter boxes.
• Place litter boxes in accessible locations, away from high-traffic areas and away from areas where the cat might feel trapped. If you live in a multistory residence, you may need to provide a litter box on each level. Keep boxes away from busy, loud or intimidating places, like next to your washer and dryer or next to your dog’s food and water bowls, or in areas where there’s a lot of foot traffic.
• Put your cat’s food bowls somewhere other than right next to her litter box.
• Remove covers and liners from all litter boxes.
• Give your cat a choice of litter types. Cats generally prefer clumping litter with a medium to fine texture. Use unscented litter. Offer different types of litter in boxes placed side-by-side to allow your cat to show you her preference.
• Scoop at least once a day. Once a week, clean all litter boxes with warm water and unscented soap, baking soda or no soap, and completely replace the litter. The problem with scented cleaners is that your cat could develop an aversion to the scent.
• Clean accidents thoroughly with an enzymatic cleanser designed to neutralize pet odors. You can find this kind of cleaner at most pet stores.
• If your cat soils in just a few spots, place litter boxes there. If it’s not possible to put a box in a spot where your cat has eliminated, place her food bowl, water bowl, bed or toys in that area to discourage further elimination.
• Make inappropriate elimination areas less appealing. Try putting regular or motion-activated lights in dark areas. You can also make surfaces less pleasant to stand on by placing upside-down carpet runners, tin foil or double-sided sticky tape in the area where your cat has eliminated in the past.

If Your Cat Has Developed a Surface or Location Preference
If your cat seems to prefer eliminating on a certain kind of surface or in a certain location, you’ll need to make that surface or its location less appealing. If the preference is in a dark area, try putting a bright light or, even better, a motion-activated light in the area. You can also make surfaces less pleasant to stand on by placing upside-down carpet runners, tin foil or double-sided sticky tape where your cat has eliminated in the past. At the same time, provide your cat with extra litter boxes in acceptable places in case part of her problem is the location of her usual litter box, and be sure to give her multiple kinds of litter to choose from so that she can show you which one she prefers. Put the boxes side-by-side for a while, each with a different type of litter, and check to see which one your cat decides to use.
Clean accidents thoroughly with an enzymatic cleanser designed to neutralize pet odors. You can find this kind of cleaner at most pet stores.
If Your Cat Has Developed a Litter Preference or Aversion
Cats usually develop a preference for litter type and scent as kittens. Some cats adapt to a change of litter without any problem at all, while other cats may feel uncomfortable using a type of litter that they didn’t use when they were young.
If you think your cat may dislike her litter type, texture or smell, try offering her different types of litter to use. Cats generally prefer clumping litter with a medium to fine texture. They also usually prefer unscented litter. To help your cat pick her preferred litter, put a few boxes side-by-side with different types of litter in them. She’ll use the one the she likes best.
Clean accidents thoroughly with an enzymatic cleanser designed to neutralize pet odors. You can find this kind of cleaner at most pet stores.
If Your Cat Is Unable to Use Her Litter Box
Special-needs cats such as those who are older, arthritic or still very young might have trouble with certain types of litter boxes. Boxes that have sides that are too high or have a top-side opening might make it difficult for your cat to enter or leave the box. Try switching to a litter box with low sides.
As in any situation where the cat may have eliminated outside her box, clean accidents thoroughly with an enzymatic cleanser designed to neutralize pet odors. You can find this kind of cleaner at most pet stores.
Treatment for Negative Litter Box Association
If your cat has experienced some kind of frightening or upsetting event while using her litter box, she could associate that event with the litter box and avoid going near it. Things that might upset your cat while she’s eliminating in her box include being cornered or trapped by a dog, cat or person, hearing a loud noise or commotion, or seeing something frightening or startling. These experiences—or any other disturbing experience—could make your cat very reluctant to enter her litter box. If your cat is afraid of her litter box, you may notice her running into the box and then leaving again very quickly, sometimes before she’s finished eliminating. You may also notice her eliminating nearby, but not inside her box. This means that your cat is worried about using her box, especially if she has reliably used litter box in the past.
Changing the Way Your Cat FeelsIf your cat associates her litter box with unpleasant things, you can work to help her develop new and pleasant associations. Cats can’t be forced to enjoy something, and trying to show your cat that her litter box is safe by placing her in the box will likely backfire and increase her dislike of the box. It’s usually not a good idea to try to train your cat to use her litter box by offering her treats like you would a dog, because many cats do not like attention while they’re eliminating. However, a professional animal behavior consultant, such as a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB) or a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (Dip ACVB) may be able to help you design a successful retraining or counterconditioning program. Please see our article, Finding Professional Behavior Help, for information about locating an applied animal behavior professional.
Sometimes retraining to overcome litter-box fears or aversions may not be necessary. Here are some steps that you can try to help your cat learn new pleasant associations:

• Move your cat’s litter box to a new location, or add a few litter boxes in different locations at the same time. Pick locations where your cat can see who is approaching from any sides that aren’t backed by walls. These locations should also have multiple escape routes so that your cat can quickly leave her litter box if she suddenly feels anxious. If possible, make sure that children or other animals who might seem threatening to your cat can’t get near her litter box.
• Fill the litter boxes one to two inches deep with a litter that is a little different from the litter in the boxes your cat avoids. Use a finer or coarser texture. If you’ve been using scented litter, try unscented litter.
• Try playing with your cat near her litter box. Also leave treats and toys for her to find and enjoy in the general area leading to her box. Don’t put her food bowl next to the box, though, because cats usually don’t like to eliminate close to their food.
• If you have a long-haired cat, try carefully and gently clipping the hair on her hind end if you notice that it gets soiled or matted during elimination. Matting can cause the hair to get pulled when the cat eliminates. That can be painful for the cat and make her skittish of her litter box.

Treatment for Household Stress
Cats sometimes stop using their litter boxes when they feel stressed. Identify and, if possible, eliminate any sources of stress or frustration in your cat’s environment. For instance, keep her food bowls full and in the same place, keep her routine as predictable as possible, prevent the dog from chasing her, close blinds on windows and doors so she isn’t upset by cats outside. If you can’t eliminate sources of stress, try to reduce them. Incorporate the use of sprays or diffusers that deliver a synthetic pheromone that has been shown to have some effect in relieving stress in cats.
Treatment for Multi-Cat Household Conflict
Sometimes an elimination problem can develop as a result of conflict between cats who live together. If you have multiple cats and aren’t sure which cat is soiling, speak with your veterinarian about giving fluorescein, a harmless dye, to one of your cats. Although the dye does not usually stain carpeting, it causes urine to glow blue under ultraviolet light for about 24 hours. If you can’t get or use fluorescein, you can temporarily confine your cats, one at a time, to determine which one is eliminating outside of the litter boxes in your home.
If there is a conflict between your cats and one of them seems stressed, provide additional litter boxes in locations where the anxious cat spends the majority of her time. Also be sure to provide adequate resting areas for each cat. It can very useful in multi-cat households to create vertical resting spots on shelves or window sills or by buying multi-perch cat trees. It may help to distribute resources such as food, water, cat posts or trees, and litter boxes so that each individual cat can make use of them without coming into contact or having a conflict with one of the other cats. Using synthetic pheromone sprays or diffusers can reduce general social stress in your household.
Medications
Always consult with your veterinarian or a veterinary behaviorist before giving your cat any type of medication for a behavior problem.
Medications can provide additional help in treating inappropriate elimination when the behavior is in response to stress or anxiety. It’s unlikely to be helpful if your cat eliminates outside her litter box because of litter-management problems, an aversion to a particular kind of litter or location, a preference for a particular surface or location, or a physical inability to use the box. If you’d like to explore this option, speak with your veterinarian, a veterinary behaviorist or a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist who can work closely with your vet. Please see our article, Finding Professional Behavior Help, to locate one of these professionals in your area
What NOT to DoRegardless of what you do so solve your cat’s elimination problems, here are a few things to avoid:

• Do not rub your cat’s nose in urine or feces.
• Do not scold your cat and carry or drag her to the litter box.
• Do not confine your cat to a small room with the litter box, for days to weeks or longer, without doing anything else to resolve her elimination problems.
• Do not clean up accidents with an ammonia-based cleanser. Urine contains ammonia, and therefore cleaning with ammonia could attract your cat to the same spot to urinate again. Instead, use a product specifically for cleaning pet accidents. 

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